DYEING ANALYSIS WITH BIO-MORDANT SOURCE IN ORGANIC COTTON DYEING WITH MADDER (Rubia tinctorum L.)

Abstract

This study aimed at investigating organic cotton fabrics dyed with five different percentages (5 %, 10 %, 20 %, 40 % and 80 %) of the roots of madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) via the shellacs of gall oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier; 1 %, 2%, 4%, 8 %, 16 %) mordant. In this case, the natural dyeing was completely performed without a chemical mordant. For this reason, this dyeing can be called environmentally friendly. A reversed - phase high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection method (RP-HPLC-DAD) was utilized for the identification of natural dyes (anthraquinones and tannins) present in the natural - dyed organic cotton extracts. The naturally dyed cotton samples were studied calorimetrically and their colour coordinates L* , a* , b* , C* , h, K/S and ∆E* values were determined. At the same time, the view related to the organic cotton fabric was taken by a scanning electron microscope (SEM).